Prologue
What makes someone stare at majestic mountains, and
desire to stand on the peaks? From where
does the need come to tax muscle, ligament and bone until they all scream
of quitting, only to be pushed further?
For me, the answer emerges from a desire to overcome limits and perceive
myself in a manner that allows me to live a richer and fuller life. Somewhere inside lurks a wild man who enjoys
pushing the limit's edge, just to experience the head rush when fear
and courage collide. Maybe I’m a little mad.
On clear days in
Portland, Mount Saint Helens can be seen from several miles. I'd often
wonder how it would feel to stand on the summit and look into its craterous
remains. I never considered the possibility
of climbing Mt. St. Helens, until a couple of years ago. A friend mentioned his numerous trips to the
top, and was planning to summit again that year.
After hearing his story, something stirred in me. Yes, I would someday stand on the top of that
mountain, even though on some level I feared the enormity of the task.
The Start of a Journey…
My
day began at 3AM. With a checklist
firmly in my head, I checked and rechecked my backpack, prayed and
hydrated. This is going to be a good
day, coursed through my mind as I readied to meet the rest of the team that
would tackle Mt. St. Helens with me. Our
team of roughnecks consisted of four members.
Our team leader was a man named Beau, a 25-year US Army veteran who,
upon hearing my desire to climb Mt. St. Helens, immediately signed on to
summit. Next, was another 25-year
veteran named Chad who has served with Beau for many of those years. Together, Chad and Beau participate in a
number of ultra-sport activities throughout the year. The third member of the team was Joe. If there is a man to admire for his diehard
grit and never say quit attitude, then
it’s Joe. Joe is a 10-year Army veteran and calls himself the “walking wounded.” I didn't know at the time; Joe came
even though he had a fracture in one of his legs. What tenacity! Of course, I was the last member of the
team.
A
trip to the summit of Mt. St. Helens can be divided into 3 portions: the tree
line (Climbers Bivouac), the boulder field (Monitor Ridge), and the ash
field. The team left Climbers Bivouac,
the start of the trail, at 8AM. Our
spirits were high and laughter filled the air, as we quickly moved along the
trail. We stopped a few times for
pictures, to hydrate, and consume trail mix and beef jerky. The Climbers Bivouac trail is roughly 2 miles
long before the 2nd potion of the climb begins. As the foliage cleared, what lay ahead of us
was a monstrous boulder field called Monitor Ridge.
The Boulder Field
Monitor Ridge, a.k.a. the boulder
field, gets its name from a solar powered seismograph located at 7000 feet on
the mountain. Mt. St. Helens is still an active volcano. The ridge doesn’t require any technical
climbing gear like ropes or special shoes, but it’s incredibly physical.
The rocks that make up Monitor Ridge used to form the top of the mountain, many being the size of small cars and mini-vans.
Once on the ridge,
almost immediately the team splintered into two groups.
Beau and Chad moved ahead quickly, while Joe and I brought up the rear as
we began the ascent. The ridge trail is
only marked by long wooden stakes that protrude from strategic spots, and is
flanked by glaciers on either side of it, like a Mohawk. At some point, I became separated from the
team by being on one side of the ridge while they were on the other side and
farther ahead. Climbing the boulder
field takes a lot of time, because the ridge can itself be divided into 3
portions: ‘wow,’ ‘where’s the escalator,’ and ‘almost there.’ Just when you think that you’re ‘almost
there,’ you aren’t and have to keep going.
Imagine having to crawl on your hands and feet for 2 miles, while simultaneously being harassed by an enormous bubble bee.
The Tale of the Bee
` On
any trail, interactions with flies and other insects are part of being in ‘the
outdoors.’ On this day, an insect that I
now affectionately call Buddy was an interaction of a different kind. The first time that Buddy appeared, he
announced himself with that annoying sound you get when you’ve been buzzed
at close proximity. Just as the team
cleared the tree line onto the ridge, Buddy, a bee the size of my thumb,
appeared--only to harass me.
Many
times on the ridge I’d pause to rest and admire many of the wonderful views of
the valley. Any time that I took too
long of a pause, Buddy would appear and do a head fly-by just to let me know
that he was still around. The first two
times that he appeared, I wielded one of my trek poles like a samurai sword,
lunging and parrying at something no one else seemed to see. After a third appearance I began to
understand Buddy's purpose. I
began to see Buddy more like a motivational speaker. He was the Tony Robbins of the insect world
screaming, “Get up and moooove, before I sting your azzzz!” So, I’d move.
The dance of
‘pause too long and get buzzed’ between Buddy and me continued for hours. But, once the team entered the ash field
portion of the climb (above 8000 feet), Buddy disappeared. I never saw Buddy again. I guess he knew that his job was done, and
moved on to harass someone else. Later,
I asked other team members if anyone else was bothered by such a bee, and they all
answered no. Buddy, if you’re still out
there, thanks for the push, pal.
I Came to Summit
Once
we were passed Monitor Ridge, the team arrived at an area thick with volcanic
ash, which had the consistency of very coarse sand. There’s no vegetation or shade in the ash
field. It was a place where all my
remaining energy and strength was sapped out of me. For every three steps forward that I took, I
lost two. 1-2-3, slide. 1-2-3, slide.
My progress was slow but steady.
1-2-3, slide.
At
some point, the rest of the team took serious note of my slow progress, and
offered me an out. “There’s no shame in
saying enough,” I was told, “it’s OK. We
just want to get there and back safely.
Don’t kill yourself in the process.”
I paused for a moment physically wasted, it was hard to breathe above 8000 feet, and to look at a stick that marked the top of the
mountain. I dropped my head and
positioned my body toward the stick. Buddy the bee was a source of determination. Buddy was now gone, but not determination.
The key to successfully overcoming challenges is to acknowledge that your
biggest fears are in the room, smile and greet them with a nod and say hello. Then, grab them harshly by the throat and dismiss them! I continued to position myself toward the
stick, and then lifted my gaze to my team, shook my head and said, “I came here
to summit. I came to summit.” My team understood, and with quiet reserve, I
trudged on. 1-2-3, slide. 1-2-3, slide…
Mt. St. Helens isn’t the tallest mountain in the
world nor is its peak the tallest in the Northwest. However, its height above ground still demands respect. A healthy dose of
respect is what replaced all of my pain and anguish as I crested the top of the
mountain. The view of the world at the
top of Mt. St. Helens was breathtaking. I was flooded with emotions of
triumph and thoughts of new possibilities.
Standing there, I out stretched my arms and closed my eyes to feel the
afternoon breeze. I had made it! I had summited Mt. St. Helens on September 6th
2012 at 5:30PM, 9.5 hours after the start.
Once More into the Breach
Standing
at the top of the mountain meant that the sky was the limit, that I was ready
to dream again, refocus my energy and trust my abilities. I was ready to…ready to… get he heck off the
mountain and head home! While ascending
the mountain, my focus was ‘just get to the top.’ As the team moved to descend, my focus
shifted to the descent, on an overwhelming desire for a Tropical Blizzard from
Dairy Queen, and on getting more water.
When
the team left from Climbers Bivouac, each of us carried at least 3 or more
liters of water on our backs. I
personally carried 3 liters in a water bladder and another 20 ounce water
bottle in my pack. My water supply
wasn’t enough. I drank way too often to
sustain my supply, even after it was replenished by my team and through the
kindness of strangers. So, when we began
the descent, I was completely out of water.
It’s every hiker’s nightmare scenario.
Lights Out
The
team moved away from the summit very fast, kicking up a lot of ash in our
wake. It only took 20 minutes to cover a
distance that earlier took 2 hours. For
a moment, we thought that we’d be back at Climbers Bivouac before
nightfall—that would not be. If there is
a clear view of the horizon, there is a trick to determining how much daylight
remains. Find the horizon and place your
right hand, palm facing you and tucking your thumb, so the bottom edge (i.e.
your pinky) is parallel with the horizon. Now in a stacking motion, move your
hand up until it’s under the sun. Each
finger represents 15 minutes, so if you’re able to stack your hand 3 times
under the sun, then there are 3 hours of sunlight left in the day.
By
6 PM, we were the only hikers present on Mt. St. Helens. For a second time, I became
separated from the group and found myself completely alone on one side of the
ridge. I called out to my team several
times, but heard nothing. I'm not one to panic during the worst of times; this wasn’t an exception. I found
myself closer to one of the glaciers that remain on the mountain as the descent of the rocks continued. Working quickly, I grabbed a rock and scraped
away about 3 inches of dirty ice. Next,
I cutout a large chunk of ice and with shaking fingers, shoved it into my
mouth. At that moment, nothing ever
tasted so good. I had to imagine that it
was cherry flavored snow, while spitting out small bits of rock. Somewhat hydrated, I got up
and continued on. Eventually, Chad
popped up atop some rocks, looking for me.
Together we made our way back to the rest of the team and continued our
descent.
Roughly
3 hours of sunlight remained, and the team was confidant that time was on our
side. However, later it became clear by
our position on the ridge that we would lose the sun. The sky exploded with streaks of red and
orange light, and one-by-one the stars winked into view when the sun slowly
dipped below the horizon. We paused briefly to put on our headlamps, looked in
the direction of home, and continued moving.
Joe was instrumental in
helping me get safely off Monitor Ridge that night. To descend the ridge on a moonless night heightened the risk of injury. I had
tripped and fallen more than nine times that night, and one of those times
resulted in a twisted an ankle. Earlier,
Joe made comment that I hadn’t been very smart in how quickly and recklessly I
moved down the ridge. I listened to him
because he was right. However eager I
was to get home, I had to do it safely. I
hadn’t known that Joe started our hike with a fracture in one of his legs, and
eventually twisted both his ankles during the ascent. Joe never complained about his injuries, and he
managed to ascend and descend the mountain with enviable speed. Finally after several hours, the team arrived
back at the tree line. Now, only two
miles stood between the team and the parking lot.
Was that a Cougar?
Once
we relocated the trail that would lead us back to Climbers Bivouac, Beau and
Joe paired up and entered the forest.
Since I was still moving slow, Chad stayed with me and illuminated obstacles and trip hazards with his light. When a person is physically fresh and strong,
two miles is a simple distance to travel.
With extreme fatigue, muscle strain, and blisters, two miles seemed to never end. At night in
the woods, there was also another hazard to consider—animals that roam the
darkness in search of prey.
Make
no mistake; the animals that roam a national park are wild. Few animals are more wild and vicious than a
cougar or mountain lion. Sometimes
weighing in at over 400 pounds and measuring 8 feet in length, these animals are an impressive and scary sight.
Though sightings are rare, one of these animals have been spotted in the
Mt St Helens National Forest.
Knowing that the big cats were nocturnal hunters, it was important
to remain vigilant of both their presence and poop droppings. Every few steps I’d turn to cast light onto
the trail that lay behind. The idea was
to bounce the light of my headlamp off the predator’s eyes, causing him to stop
in his tracks. In those moments, I knew
that I couldn’t out run anything, so I was prepared to use my trek poles as
weapons if necessary. Ultimately, I
would’ve lost a fight with a mountain lion or cougar; however, I refused to be an
easy meal.
I
don’t know how many times I stopped to peer behind me. Our arrival back to the parking lot marked the end of the trail, the end of the climb,
and the end to any potential threat of becoming a main course. It was 2 AM, 18 hours from the time that the
team started toward the summit of Mt. St. Helens, and it was over.
Epilogue
At
3:30AM, I finally arrived home. It had
been 24 hours since I had slept. I
was beat up but not broken. There were
blisters on the tips of 8 toes, blisters under 4 toenails that looked like black toenails, and a very large blood blister on the sole of my
right foot. The only parts of my body
that didn’t ache were my knees and back.
The 4 toenails that appeared blackened, I removed using a pair of needle
nose pliers. The remaining blisters had
to be lanced with an alcohol soaked needle.
Yet, even as I worked on rehabilitating my feet and sore muscles, I
couldn’t stop making plans for my next mountain expedition: Mount
Hood.